by Inge de Leeuw
Out of Fashion Exhibition
The exhibition provides a background to the film programme; an aim also reflected in the design of the exhibition. Special storyboards and three special installations are on display, all demonstrating the relationship between fashion and cinema.
agnès b. (1941 Versailles, France)
agnès b. started her own label in Paris in 1973. Within a short time, the agnès b. brand was known internationally and today she has shops all over the world.
Her world is not limited to fashion design only. agnès b. is also actively involved in two very different art forms: the visual arts and the independent film. She has been a fervent filmmaker for 20 years, owns her own film production company, Love Streams agnès b. Productions, and is founder of her own art gallery, galerie du jour. This B-side of her world is examined in the exhibition.
As a director agnès b. has made a large number of video diaries. For the IFFR, agnès b. has selected four video diaries that together form the installation Quelques films. The films are celebrating their world premiere in Rotterdam and provide a picture of agnès b. as a person and as designer: a glimpse of her sources of inspiration and views on life.
In Quelques films, the following works will be screened:
La pierre ou la vie
agnès b., France, 2011
The film is a metaphor for life for agnès b.: being shaken and to resist.
agnès b., France, 2011
“Venice Biennale, 2003. It was hot! 42°C !… We were at the "Arsenale", for the exhibition “Utopia Station”, curated by Hans Ulrich Obrist.”
A Walk in the Garden
agnès b., France, 2011
A special walk through the garden. Filmed with the tiny Harinezumi camera.
agnès b., France, 2011
In 1986, agnès b. filmed her daughter Aurore using a Super-8 camera; a conversation with an angel.
Since 1997 she also spreads her love of the visual arts in the free publication Point d'Ironie, compiled with Christian Boltansky and Hans-Ulrich Obrist. The concept is simple: eight times a year, an artist is given the freedom to fill eight large sheets of paper. The most recent edition of Point d’ironie was made by Pierre Reimer and will be available free of charge in Rot(t)terdam during the IFFR.
Maison Martin Margiela (1988)
After his graduation from the Royal Academy of Antwerp in 1979, Martin Margiela founded Maison Martin Margiela in 1988. Often referred to as iconoclast, avant-garde and experimental, the Maison expresses its creativity through recycling, transformation and reinterpretation - like an emotion, a unique and timeless proposal defying all laws and rules. The collections gather 13 lines of products: from "work of art" to timeless classics, from radical accessories to casual clothes, from fashion to interior design, each of them complementing one another to compose a whole universe, way beyond a mere style.
For the International Film Festival of Rotterdam, Maison Martin Margiela presents a selection of 20 years of film and video work, using an installation where its Paris team humorously introduces the works themselves. Outside of the exhibition space, another series of films is presented, transforming a Rotterdam street into a makeshift living room.
Through these ‘trompe-l’oeil’ techniques, the Maison welcomes the public into its conceptual, imaginative and inventive universe.
Four film programmes have been compiled for this installation: Backstage and atelier, A few iconic shows, Singular variations in window-shop and Staging the collection.
BLESS is a platform that was founded in 1997 by Desiree Heiss (1971, Freiburg, Germany) and Ines Kaag (1970, Fürth, Germany). Together they run BLESS; Heiss from Paris and Kaag from Berlin. Conceptually challenging, BLESS adopts a multidisciplinary approach and moves between fashion, sport, visual art, design and architecture. Every BLESS collection has a specific number and a name that matches the products: from BLESS N°00 Fur Wigs- N°40 Whatwasitagain.
BLESS is also recognisable by the creative performances and special videos, promoting its collection. The exhibition includes two compilation programmes of BLESS: BLESS Retroperspective Home N°30- N°41 and BLESS Celebrating 10 Years of Themelessness.
BLESS developed the Workoutcomputer, the ultimate dream tool for every day office work, facing the problem of balancing mental and physical fatigue alike. BLESS sees the Workoutcomputer as a good test to breach new ground in combining work and leisure time in a useful, playful way.
Anna-Nicole Ziesche (1972, Hamburg, Germany)
Ziesche studied Fashion Design at the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. In 2000 she made her first film 'Infinite Repetition' for her graduation show. The film suggested not only a new way of communicating fashion but is also revealing a process of continuously developing designs and shapes.
Ziesche works as a visual artist, is BA Fashion Lecturer at the Central Saint Martins and research fellow: Design for Performance at the London College of Fashion.
How are adults influenced by events in their childhood? In the film Childhood Storage (see: Out of Fashion Magazine: Conceptual Spaces) Anna-Nicole Ziesche searches her nursery room for an answer to this question.
For the film, Anna-Nicole Ziesche compiled a storyboard, from photos and drawings. Together with the model that led to the design of the set, this storyboard can be seen in the exhibition.
Rodarte was founded in Pasadena, California in 2005 by Kate and Laura Mulleavy. Following graduation from University of California at Berkeley in 2001, both Kate and Laura returned to their home in Pasadena where they launched Rodarte.
The highly acclaimed Rodarte collections, named after the Mulleavys’ mother’s maiden name, have become synonymous with inventiveness, individuality and sophistication.
Horror movies have proven to be an enormous inspiration for the Rodarte collections. Their film AANTENI, directed by Todd Cole, combines their love for horror films with their interest in futurism. A significant role in the film is played by their own collection.
Kate and Laura Mulleavy from Rodarte created costumes for the feature film Black Swan, directed by Darren Aronofsky. Kate and Laura designed the costumes for the Swan Lake ballet in Black Swan, as well as other iconic pieces worn by Natalie Portman. Six original sketches by Kate Mulleavy for their designs are on display in the exhibition. Autumn de Wilde photographed the costumes; two prints are shown.
Todd Cole (1970, Los Angeles, USA)
Todd Cole is known as a photographer and filmmaker. He has published in i-D, Purple, New York Times T Magazine, Vogue, Art Review, and Vogue Homme International. He has had exhibitions in Paris, United Kingdom and in Mexico City.
Todd Cole directed the film Aanteni, which he made together with Rodarte. In the exhibition, he shows the original, self-drawn storyboard, together with the still photos from the film. This provides an interesting contrast between the simple drawings and the stylised final product. At the moment he is working on a new film for Rodarte.